Possible Maker: The punch or monogram “HK” has usually been attributed to two makers. The most famous, Hans Koch was working from 1554 to 1599, but was based in Munich, and appears to have been more specialised in clocks. The other is Hans Kiening from Fussen, with similar dates, but mostly known for his instruments. In any case, their punch marks are not of the same form as the engraved monograms on these watches. In addition, of course, there is the additional letter N, which would strongly indicate the town of Nuremberg. To date there is no obvious candidate, but the fact that they are effectively jewels, it could be that the maker was a member of the goldsmiths guild. Provenance: Louis-Fidel Debruge-Duménil (1788-1838), French. After success in the property market, he began collecting in earnest during the last ten years of his life, apparently amassing some fifteen thousand objects dating from antiquity through to the 18th. century and including ivories, sculpture, enamels, jewels, arms, paintings and horology. An extensive study of the subject and catalogue of the important pieces in the collection (858 pages) was compiled by Jules Labarte (1.) (1797-1880), who trained as a lawyer before marrying Debruge-Dumenils daughter in 1823, and subsequently dedicating himself to the study of the History of Art. The book of the collection was published in 1847, and formed the basis for the immense auction that took place in Paris between 23 January and 12 March 1850, (2.) and included some 2061 lots. Buyers numbered all the major Museums and collectors of the age, including Prince Soltykoff. This watch was sold as lot 1457, to a Msr. Juste, an Expert in Paris, for 1900 francs, probably acting on behalf of Prince Soltykoff since he was an Expert for the Auction of the Princes subsequent sale in 1861. Prince Peter Soltykoff (1804-1889), Art collector; grandson of Count (later Prince) Nikolay Ivanovich Soltykoff (1736-1816), and son of Prince Dmitri Nikolaevich Soltykoff (1767-1826); Moved to Paris in 1840 where he assembled an important collection of medieval objects, including a superb group of early watches and clocks. The finest of these were catalogued by Pierre Dubois, horologist and author, and published in his book in 1858 (3.). This watch is illustrated and described under Plate XII, figs 1-3. Dubois considered it to be one of the finest surviving examples in Europe. Prince Soltykoffs entire Collection comprising 1100 lots was sold by auction between 8 April-1 May 1861 at Hôtel Drouot, Paris, and included some 87 “Renaissance” watches and clocks. This watch was sold as lot 406 for 3010 francs, by far the most expensive watch. It was purchased by a member of the Rothschild family. 壓花題字”HK”,疑來自德國紐倫堡 — 德國橢圓形黃金琺瑯水晶鍊錶,約 1560年 - 意義深遠,不同凡響的早期冠輪鍊錶,搭配黃金琺瑯及水晶裝 飾。根據記載,從1861年開始,其中一部分被Debruge-Duménil收藏(1.) ,一部分是Soltykoff王子(4.)及巴黎Rothschild公司的收藏品。 48161 C: 2, 33 D: 2, 16 M: 2, 41 120.000 - 250.000 EUR 134.400 - 280.000 USD 1.056.000 - 2.200.000 HKD Literature: 1. Labarte, J. Description des Objets dArt qui Composent la Collection Debruge Dumenil, V. Didron, Paris,1847, p. 730, Item 1457. 2. Bonnefons De Lavialle, Catalogue des Objets dArt qui Composent la Collection Debruge Dumenil, Auction in Paris, January to March 1850, p.159, lot 1457. 3. Dubois, P., Collection Archéologique Du Prince Pierre Soltykoff, Horlogerie, V. Didron, Paris, 1858, Pl.XII, figs 1-3. 4. Pillet.C, Catalogue des Objets d’Art et de Haute Curiosité composant la Célèbre Collection du Prince Soltykoff... dont la vente aura lieu... les lundi 8 avril et jours suivants... /, Paris, 1861, p. 113, Lot 406 5. Craft M.L., Only Time will Tell: Examination and Analysis of an Early German Watch, The American Institute for Conservation of Historic & Artistic Works, Vol 14, 2007, pp. 47-64. 6. J. Labarte online biography: https://www.inha.fr/fr/ressources/publications/ publications- numeriques/dictionnaire-critique-des-historiens-de-l-art/labarte- jules.html 7. Britten, F.W., Old Clocks and Watches and their Makers, E.& F. Spon, London 1932, 6th. edition, p.78, figs. 74,75. Described by Britten as not later than “mid- sixteenth - century work”. 8. Mannheim, C. (Expert), Catalogue des Objets DArt….. composant limportante et précieuse Collection Spitzer, Paris, 1893, Vol.II, lot 2713 and pl. LXII. 9. Wypyski, Mark. 2002. Renaissance Enameled Jewelry and 19th Century Renaissance Revival: Characterization of Enamel Compositions. In Materials Issues in Art and Archaeology VI, ed. Pamela B. Vandiver et al. Warrendale, Pennsylvania: Materials Research Society. 223-233. 10. Wypyski, Mark. 2005. Unpublished analytical report for watch WAM #58.31.